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London - Diverse, Exhilarating and Exhausting
A WorldWeb.com feature travel article.
Home > United Kingdom > England > Greater London > London - Inner > Features & Reviews > Town & City Reviews > Editorial
 
London - Diverse, Exhilarating and Exhausting
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

Tower Bridge

London is a city unlike any other. Nowhere can duplicate its unique character and atmosphere. Although there may be other newer cities that are more modern and just as urbane in the English-speaking world- New York City being a prime example; London is a place that should be experienced if at all possible. London is the keystone of England, and to most English speakers it is, in a way, home. That is not to say that London is exclusively for the English speaker, for people the world over who are fortunate enough to be able to travel there, it is an incredibly popular destination. In these days of globalization, London is like a common denominator - its links with the rest of the world seem unlimited. Sociological and artistic trends have often had their beginnings in London. While certain aspects of London can be the quintessence of England, on the other hand, few places are as cosmopolitan. Certainly in terms of tolerance and acceptance of other cultures and lifestyles, London, while not perfect, leads the way.

The magic of London probably lies in its universal appeal and the diversity of its attractions, which is as vast as the city itself. It would be impossible to see anything but a fraction of it in the course of a week's visit. Many fans of this great city spend a lifetime visiting as often as they can, discovering something new and exciting during each trip. As well as the world famous sites such as Buckingham Palace, The Tower of London, or Piccadilly Circus - to name but three, what really makes London so special are the countless lesser-known attractions and experiences which in many cases are less tangible but nonetheless unique. The most lasting memories of a trip to London could include an interesting conversation with a taxi driver, or a lunchtime pint in a crowded East End pub. This is not to detract from the importance of the 'household name' attractions that London is full of. To actually visit Trafalgar Square, or to hear Big Ben chime live is remarkable, and the fulfillment of a dream for many visitors on their first trip to London after years of imagining themselves there.

Buckingham Palace (photo courtesy of Karine Kugler)

London truly does have something to cater to every interest. Its art galleries, theatres and other centres of culture are legendary. There are museums with a wide variety of themes - from science and technology to history, and from archaeology to horticulture. These are all among the world's best. For visitors who are not lovers of big cities, while the pace is often frantic, it is always easy to steal away to one of the countless green spaces. London has more parks than anywhere else does - some of them so large that it is entirely possible to feel that one is in the country when in reality the traffic snarls are only a five minute walk away.

History

Please see the WorldWeb Travel Guide Feature: The History of London

Climate

Houses of Parliament and Big Ben Tower in the mist

London's climate is the subject of several myths. Firstly the notorious thick London fogs are long a thing of the past. While misty rainy conditions are a possibility; clean air legislation has controlled the legendary 'pea soupers' - as the yellow, sulphurous smogs caused by excessive coal burning, were known. Secondly it does not rain in London all the time (well not quite!). In the British Isles rain is a strong possibility at any time of year, with rainfall slightly heavier in the winter months. On the plus side, despite the rain, winter temperatures are relatively mild (the average high in January is 6 celsius) and as most winter visitors are there for cultural reasons, the weather is of little consequence as it is possible to stay indoors for much of the time. Besides, clear, crisp winter days occur often. Snow in London is sporadic and rarely significant. Winter has the added advantage of being the time for good deals on hotels and tours.

Spring in London is an ideal time to visit. London has more parks and green spaces than any other city, so the fresh spring vegetation, blossoms, and spring flowers are an added bonus. Summers in London can be idyllic and in July the average high is 22 degrees celsius - it often gets warmer than that though. When it does get hot, the parks and green spaces offer many recreational opportunities. The pleasant summer days are perfect for taking in one of the many street performers, or just for sitting on a park bench watching the world go by. London has a lot of grand trees and autumn when the leaves turn colour is a very attractive time to visit. Crowds are less and a new cultural season is starting..

Accommodations

London has a huge range of accommodation types. It should be said that accommodation in London is often expensive, and as a general rule if you spend too little you will get what you pay for. At the same time a high price does not necessarily guarantee unashamed luxury. There are many Bed and Breakfasts to choose from, and these range from the bare basics to deluxe homes that look like something out of an up market lifestyle magazine. Guest Houses and small private hotels tend to be cheapest but are often in more out of the way neighbourhoods, some of these are delightful establishments ranging from quaint to ultra modern and offer the best chance of a deal. The large hotels also vary. London has many deluxe hotels that are among the world's best and offer every conceivable service for a considerable price, which may well be worth the money for those who enjoy luxury. Sometimes the large hotels that are not considered to be deluxe can be cramped and unattractive. Research and comparison shopping are the key, and personal taste and preferences play a big role . For Online Hotel Reservations for the London area please click here.

Orientation and Transportation

Planning is essential for any visitor to London, while free time should be allowed to wander the streets and districts of London. Arough itinerary should be thought out and information on transportation and admissions to a particular site obtained in advance. The geographical divisions of London can be confusing, and the vast size of London and Greater London very intimidating to the uninitiated. This should not deter visitors though; by studying a map finding where you want to go should be relatively simple. The River Thames splits the city in two. Most (but certainly not all) of the well known major attractions are located north of the river, and most of these are confined to a fairly central area. The city is also divided into compass points, this can get very confusing, it is always better to pinpoint a proposed destination on a map before going there. If you do get lost, Londoners are more than willing to offer directions, and are quite used to being asked. Unless a person is very familiar with the streets of London, driving a vehicle within Central London should not be considered. Traffic congestion is legendary, and the one-way street system confuses even the most seasoned London driver.

The London Underground railway system (or tube as it is known by the locals) is by far the best way to get around in London. The key to successful trips to any destination in the London area is to find out the name of the nearest tube station (nearly all businesses and attractions publish this), and plan a route on the easy to obtain map of the underground. Buses are also excellent, but a little more complex and slower to use. A variety of passes are available for visitors to have unlimited travel on the underground, buses or both for a selected period. These represent excellent value for money and are very convenient. The ubiquitous taxis are also a good way of getting from point to point - especially when in a hurry. The famous black London taxis (unique to Britain) can be hailed in the street or from a taxi rank, or taxis that utilize regular vehicles (known as mini-cabs) can be ordered by telephone.

Tour Bus at Piccadilly Circus (photo courtesy of Karine Kugler)

Another excellent way of orienting oneself to the city and of taking in all the major sights is to take a 'hop on hop off' bus tour. These usually use open topped double-decker buses and their route stops at many of the major attractions on a regular basis. Participants in the tour simply get off at the attractions they wish to visit and when they are ready board the bus again for the next destination.

Getting to London by air is easy and the city is linked from all major cities in the world, and from many not so major places also. As London is a hub for intercontinental air travel, many choose to break their journey there for a few days between flights. Transportation to Central London from the three main London airports at Heathrow, Gatwick, Luton and Stansted is varied and includes trains, underground and direct bus links. There is also an airport in the Docklands area, London City Airport is linked by smaller aircraft from an increasing number of U.K. and European cities and has fast and frequent shuttlebus links to the nearby business district.

The port of London is long gone, Tilbury in Essex is quite a way down the Thames and is where ships that serve London sail. It is the usual terminus for cruise ships visiting London as part of their itinerary.

Train services from the rest of England, Scotland and Wales are frequent and most British communities have or are within relatively short distance to a train station. With the advent of the Channel Tunnel there is direct train service from European cities to London. London has many main line stations, each serving a different part of the country.

London is also served by an excellent network of buses (known as coaches) from throughout the U.K. There are also through coach services from the continent and the Republic of Ireland to London. Nearly all of these coaches arrive at London's Victoria Coach Station.

The People - manners and humour

Visitors will be impressed by the politeness of the local people. Pushing, shoving or otherwise 'making a scene' is a rare occurrence. The lineup or queue is almost sacred; to push in a queue is a cardinal sin which will not go without rebuke. Another grave faux-pas is for two people to stand together on one step of an escalator. One side of the escalator must always be kept clear to allow those people craving exercise or who are in a hurry to pass. Londoners are not known for engaging in friendly conversation with strangers, however are nearly always willing to help, and will take great pains to do so. Do not mistake British reserve for snobbery or indifference, Britain has no greater share of snobs among its population than any other nation. Cockneys (loosely Londoners from the East End) are usually anything but reserved when in familiar surroundings, though you will likely need a translator to understand what they are saying! Above all most British people, whatever their social class or origins, possess a sense of humour that is unlike any other. Sometimes they are sarcastic but this is not meant to offend. Their humour is nearly always droll and understated. Sometimes the drollness may be confused with negativity, this is not the case and the rule here is not to take people too seriously. If a British person perceives that someone is taking them too seriously, then the drollness and sarcasm will merely intensify. London's people are its greatest asset, enjoy them.

Cuisine

Please see the WorldWeb Travel Guide Feature: Cuisine of the United Kingdom

Featured Attractions

The River Thames has always played an integral role in the complex fabric that makes up London. As well as dividing the city in two it also serves as London's gateway to the sea, and while London's role as a major port is in the past, the Thames is still busy with a variety of craft. Even though visitors will no longer see a royal barge, tramp steamer or passenger liner, the Thames is still very interesting and a great way to see many of the sights of London, especially those close to the river. These include the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, The Tower of London, Tower Bridge and the Millenium Dome. The real 'feel' of London can be experienced from the Thames. It is possible to take a variety of boat trips from Westminster Pier. Many go down river as far as Greenwich, which looks particularly spectacular from the river.

The Old Royal Observatory at Greenwich marks the dividing line between the eastern and western hemispheres, as zero degrees longitude passes through the Greenwich Meridian. Greenwich Mean Time marks the point of reference for the world's time zones. Greenwich is home to the National Maritime Museum that is dedicated to telling the story of Britain and its strong links to the sea. This is the world's largest nautical museum. The Cutty Sark is also moored permanently at Greenwich. Built in 1869, this clipper ship was used to carry tea between the east and England. Sadly these high-speed sailing ships were soon made obsolete by steam.

Hampton Court Palace

A cruise up river from Westminster Pier can take you as far as Hampton Court. This delightful journey takes a lot longer than the one to Greenwich, and passes through more rural areas. Of all the royal palaces that can be seen, Hampton Court is the most interesting. It offers architecture from two periods, Tudor and Regency, as well as extensive gardens, including the world famous maze referred to in Jerome K. Jerome's novel 'Three Men in a Boat.' The initial goal for visitors to the maze is to get to the middle of it; getting out again is another challenge. A perfect day away from the rush and crush of London is to take the morning boat down to Hampton Court, and to spend time in its lovely garden setting with the Thames as a backdrop.

Hampton Court was originally purchased by Cardinal Wolsey, Henry VIII's trusted Lord Chancellor. He turned the comparatively modest courtyard house into a palace - largely to impress his king and to provide suitable lodgings for him on casual visits. When Wolsey fell out of favour at the time of the reformation, Henry took over the palace and it became crown property. The palace was further expanded to accommodate Henry's court of around 1,000 and it became very popular with the Tudor monarchs. Today what remains of the Tudor palace is significant, but only a fraction of what was added by Henry and later by his daughter Elizabeth I. The other part of the palace is the royal apartments, designed by Sir Christopher Wren for King William and Queen Mary. The whole of Hampton Court, both inside and out, is lovingly restored and maintained and is a 'must see' on any London itinerary. Many people return on every visit to London.

London is also renowned as a Mecca for shoppers. The best shopping can be found in Knightsbridge and on Bond Street, Piccadilly, Regent Street and Oxford Street. London's department stores are legendary and include such temples of shopping as Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges. For toys the place to go is Hamley's, and for food Fortnum and Mason.

Harrod's (photo courtesy of Karine Kugler)

The most famous store by far though is Harrods. Its simple green and gold bags are now a familiar sight the world over. While Harrods has branched out and can be found in airport concourses throughout the world, nothing can prepare a neophyte for a visit to the actual Knightsbridge store. Harrods has always prided itself on being able to obtain absolutely anything for its cherished customers. It is also more than willing to accommodate window shoppers - though it would be hard for a visitor to come away without making at least one small purchase, even if its just to obtain a bag as a souvenir.

The Edwardian building the store is housed in is palatial in itself, and yet is designed to show the store's wares to make them almost irresistible. Of particular fascination for all visitors is the food hall. The décor of tile and tasteful friezes is remarkable and sets off the awesome collection of foods so that they appear perfect. And perfect they are, the cheeses are ripened to suit a variety of tastes, and the delicatessen is displayed so that the variety is almost overwhelming.

Harrod's toy department is also truly amazing. For the child who has everything the equivalent of a full amusement park can be purchased by the doting parent. In the same way, for those who pamper their pooch or cosset their cat, the pet store has it all. A made to measure ermine dog coat is not a problem. For those whose zoolatry is for the more exotic, anything can be ordered from aardvarks to zebras. Despite the seeming excess, everything at Harrods appears understated and refined - and that is the essence of the place and why it still is the world's premier store.

Hyde Park Corner (photo courtesy of Karine Kugler)

London has always tolerated the eccentric and for centuries has treasured the rights of freedom of speech and opinion. Nowhere is this more evident than at Speaker's Corner. Located by Marble Arch at the main access to the park, the tradition of Speaker's Corner began in 1872. This was a time of civil unrest and it was felt that if people had a place to voice their opinions this would act like a pressure valve. Since then every Sunday at Speaker's Corner is when people mount their soapbox (or today usually a milk crate or stepladder) and hold court on a variety of subjects. While Speaker's Corner's orators are over-represented by religious and political fanatics who can be a little disturbing, often somebody will speak who can be quite fascinating. Although the opinions are usually off the wall and of little consequence in the real world, it is always of merit to learn how others may think, and in small doses the speakers are rarely boring. Equally interesting and often more amusing are the hecklers who seem to have total disregard for the rights of people to be heard. Depending on the mood and opinions of the crowd, they will either support the speaker or the heckler. Amazingly though it can get noisy and very heated, violence is rare, and of course not tolerated, there is always a London Bobby or two close at hand.

The London Eye (photo courtesy of Mike Berezowski)

One of London's newest and most successful attractions is the London Eye - also known as the Millennium Wheel. This giant observation wheel (similar to a Ferris wheel) is the world's largest and was built by a consortium including British Airways to mark the millennium. Unlike the unfortunate Millennium Dome, the London Eye has been a huge success. It is necessary to book ahead as early as possible to ensure a place at the time required. The Eye is located on the south bank of the Thames, across the river from Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. The wheel reaches a height of 135 metres and consists of 32 capsules that each holds 25 passengers; the ride takes 30 minutes. The capsules are clear and afford a heart-stopping view for miles around. This is an attraction that will excite even the most jaded visitor, and of course being new offers something to visitors who have experienced London before.

As previously stated, a visit to London includes experiences as well as places and sights. Two notable culinary experiences are the full English and afternoon tea. The 'full English' refers to the full English breakfast. This as opposed to a continental breakfast that consists of a light snack of rolls or various breads and coffee, possibly with the Anglicized (strictly Americanized) addition of juice and cereal. The 'Full English' as so many institutions call it, can be delicious or absolutely disgusting. It is similar in concept to a North American breakfast, and usually consists of bacon, sausage and eggs (rarely pancakes or waffles, though these are gaining in popularity), baked beans, fried tomato, toast and coffee or tea. Sometimes black pudding (blood sausage) or liver, or kidneys are also offered.

Depending on the establishment serving it, the 'full English' can very often be well cooked and most enjoyable. You can usually opt out of the more controversial menu items such as baked beans (in the morning?) blood sausage or offal. However trying to opt out of one of these items in a less flexible eatery may be difficult as the breakfasts are often plated en masse. Unfortunately in many places serving a 'full English' the bacon will be fatty and contain large pieces of white gristle, the canned baked beans tasteless, cold and runny. The eggs are likely to be hard and rubbery and covered in congealed fat (forget ordering them sunny side up, over easy or basted, you will just receive strange looks from the server), and the tomato consisting mostly of grease, skin and seeds. The coffee may represent dishwater and the tea dark and strong enough to stand a spoon in. Be warned, use prudence in your choice of establishment. The price you pay or the class of establishment has little bearing. It is entirely possible to receive a disgusting 'Full English' in a 'fine' hotel, while the superlative version may be served in a lorry (truck) drivers' café. The best advice is to peek at other guests' meals before committing.

On the other hand, Afternoon Tea is nearly always a very pleasant experience. While the British are renowned for tea drinking, and teatime, most visitors are unaware that the actual British Afternoon Tea (which includes the food that accompanies the beverage) is a rapidly disappearing institution. Afternoon Tea consists of dainty, crustless sandwiches (of at least two varieties), scones with heaps of butter, jam and Devonshire (ideally the clotted variety) cream, and cake or pastries, all accompanied by a bottomless pot of the finest tea. Perhaps it is due to the current obsession with nutrition and not over indulging, but the idea of what amounts to a full meal between lunch and dinner is just not fashionable any more. Of course the easy solution to this is to skip lunch, or to eat a late and light dinner. Afternoon Tea is available in the restaurants of department stores and in many of the finer hotels. It can be expensive but most worthwhile, especially at one of the finer well-established London hotels.

Afternoon tea is often mistakenly called High Tea - particularly in the former colonies. High Tea is the same as afternoon tea but with the addition of a hot entrée such as sausages or Welsh Rarebit (melted cheese on toast), but this is rarely served in restaurants and is meant as a definite alternative to dinner. High Tea is still very popular, originally designed as a meal to be served in the nursery to children as a replacement for the more formal dinner. It is now served in many British households particularly on a Sunday evening. So if you are lucky enough to be hosted by British friends or relatives, request one of the two types of 'tea.' Whatever your choice, when in London be sure to partake in this most civilized of customs at least once.